La Belle Province: Regional Cuisine, Whales, and Vistas on the St. Lawrence Adventure

We were up early this morning because we had a mission:  get on the Baie St Catherine – Tadoussac ferry as early as possible so we could get signed up for the 1:30 PM Whale Watching Zodiac Tour with Crosières AML. With almost no traffic on Sunday morning, our drive across the bridge and through the east side of Québec City was smooth and uneventful.  The highway runs parallel to the St Lawrence, meandering toward and away from the shore depending on towns and landforms, but it really felt like there was only one destination on the route:  that short (and free) ferry across the Saguenay River. 

Happily, after a very short wait on the road above the crossing, we were the second-last vehicle to board.  I realized that our timing would allow us to make the 1:30 cruise, so booked our tickets online while traversing the river.  This ferry boards, travels, and empties very quickly, and after our short ten-minute trip, we arrived in the charming village of Tadoussac!  There are many pay-parking lots around the village, and a very helpful person suggested we try the big lot adjacent to the church, which was the perfect spot!

After validating our online tickets, we stopped for a latte and pastry at Café l’Abri Côtier.  Because Keeley would be resting in Large Marge while we whale watched, she joined us on the porch of the café and for a walk around this cute, activity-forward village.  The town is clearly geared for adventure with a vintage resort hotel, opportunities for hiking and cycling, and loads of watersports outfitters. We enjoyed the walk through the church’s cemetery and down to the waterfront.

When we arrived at Crosières AML’s dockside pavilion, we signed our waivers (?!) and donned the orange all-weather overalls and jackets they doled out to each passenger! I had become enchanted with the humpback whales in Newfoundland, and hoped to see some of the different varieties in Tadoussac, which is known worldwide for its rich and varied marine life. 

Our Zodiac (large outboard motor-powered inflatable boat) held about 28 passengers, plus a captain and two naturalists who provided commentary and expertise in spotting the animals.  When we heard the first whale blow, the excitement on board was elevated, with everyone scanning the horizon for glimpses of whale spouts or fins.  We were well rewarded with close sightings of many fin whales, one of the largest varieties of whale; we also had far-off sightings of the cute white belugas, three different kinds of seals, and a pod of playful dolphins putting on an aquabatic display for us.

After two and a half chilly, windy, and exhilarating hours on the Gulf of St Lawrence, we returned to the harbour at Tadoussac.  Our hard work in rising very early, driving hours uncaffeinated, and betting on making the ferry in time had paid off!  We had a great experience as Crosière AML passengers and would recommend this trip to anybody!  It’s a good thing Dave had his 360 camera in hand, because in my enthrallment with the experience I only took a handful of photos, most of which seem to have been of the water either just before or just after something wonderful took my breath away!!!

After two and a half chilly, windy, and exhilarating hours on the Gulf of St Lawrence, we returned to the harbour at Tadoussac.  Our hard work in rising very early, driving hours uncaffeinated, and betting on making the ferry in time had paid off!  We had a great experience as Crosière AML passengers and would recommend this trip to anybody!  It’s a good thing Dave had his 360 camera in hand, because in my enthrallment with the experience I only took a handful of photos, most of which seem to have been of the water either just before or just after something wonderful took my breath away!!!

Safe Travels

Lynn Abbey

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